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The valve is supposed to prevent back-flow of air into the second stage outlet tube. This would be respectable for a single stage pump with filthy oil - which this has. My suspicion at this point was that something was wrong with the second stage. Apparently there is no relief valve between the first and second stages - none is visible but it's also possible it is hidden inside and just stuck or clogged. After disassembling it for the second time and finding the problem, I unstuck the rubber from the shaft, lined up the broken pieces as best I could, and added an additional spring of my own to keep them together - hopefully. The repairman came out the following day and said he fixed the problem, but it could also be part of another problem, but he was not sure. American West Appliance Repair sent Mike out same day. We provide emergency Same Day Jenn Air Dryer repair Services in Stittsville, Ontario. When the sun shines too brightly for napping or watching television, roll-up shades -- on those same doors -- stop the glare.
Now on May 8, 2013 the same thing has happened as the serviceman says that the sealed system has gone out again. This pipe can now be removed from the solenoid. For a tube that never leaves the pump, like most home-built lasers, you can put in a fresh fill and flush away dirt. With this pump, the drained oil always looked reasonably clean and I never suspected what lurked hidden in the sump. Brush off any debris and clean the tube that leads from the pilot to the burner. To make a gasket last longer, clean it regularly with a wet cloth. With the reed valves submerged in oil, the oil really does the sealing so the reeds don't need to make gas-tight contact but they need to be present! You see, when it comes to professional appliance repair, you need to know whether they have previous experience with the appliance type/brand in question.
We know how these situations are handled and how the appliances are perfectly repaired. One other minor quirk appeared and I don't know whether it is inherent to this pump or due to my reed valve which may work too well: If left under vacuum when switched off, after awhile the pump chambers fill with oil. At first I thought the slight gap between the reeds in the original reed valve was there to allow venting after shutdown as it would drain the small amount of oil in the reed valve compartment and then suck atmospheric pressure air into the pump chambers rather than oil. If my RF source is turned on for a few seconds and then turned off, the pressure drops still further but creeps back to its previous reading. Initially, I didn't realize that there was anything wrong with the seal and put the pump back together.
But there was very definite suction. Imagine my surprise when placing a finger over it resulted in suction! So, I turned my polyethylene reed over - it has smooth and rough sides - to use its rough side in the hope that would reduce the seal and act as a substitute. It pumped fine but leaked all over the table. The shaft seal (and reed valve) are holding up just fine. This is one reason why using flushing oil is important - no matter how many plain oil changes are performed, they won't dislodge the crud at the bottom of the sump. In this case, the chance of any damage from it would have been minimal since it was clearly minding its business at the bottom of the sump but that never stopped me from ripping things apart. In any case, new oil should allow it to maintain 15 microns or maybe even slightly better without cooling which isn't bad for an old refrigeration service pump. With the pump attached to my home-built thermocouple gauge, the pressure reached 30 microns before the shaft seal started gushing oil. Normally, a strong spring maintains pressure on the rotating part of the seal with the rubber sleeve sliding on the shaft to adjust as the pump assembly is slid in place.
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